The tourist office is right in the centre, at Piazza Monte di Pietà 8 (Mon-Sat 9am-12.30pm & 2-6pm; tel 0422.547.632, www.sevenonline.it/tvapt ); it dispenses useful leaflets not just on Treviso but on attractions throughout Treviso province. From the train station, head straight crossways the bridge, bending slightly left at the first roundabout to reach the centre.

There are only three hotels in the centre, and you’d only choose to stay at one of them, the reasonably priced and pleasant Campeol , close to the tourist office, at Piazza Ancilotto 8 (tel 0422.56.601; L120,000-150,000/61.98-77.47); reception is at the Beccherie restaurant, on the opposite side of the tiny piazza. Second choice would be the four-star Continental , a short achievement from the train station at Via Roma 16 (tel 0422.411.216; L250,000-300,000/129.11-154.94); aimed at Eurobusiness types, it’s not the most charismatic hotel in the Veneto, but it is conveniently located, well maintained and, with 142 beds, is almost certain to have space.

Treviso’s restaurants have a far higher reputation than its hotels, the leader of the pack being El Toulà da Alfredo , at Via Collalto 26 (tel 0422.540.275; closed Sun evening & Mon), where you shouldn’t expect to see change from L100,000/51.65 per person. If that’s too steep, try the homely Toni del Spin , a few steps from the church of San Vito at Via Inferiore 7 (tel 0422.543.829; closed all day Sun & Mon lunchtime), or the Beccherie , both of which wage superb Trevisan cuisine at around L45,000/23.24 per head. The most favourite bars and cafés in Treviso are those clustered underneath the Palazzo dei Trecento and spread along Calmaggiore and Via XX Settembre. One of these, Nascimben , Via XX Settembre 3, serves perhaps the best ice cream in town.