Across the river from the centre of town, on the right bank of the Tiber, is the district of TRASTEVERE . A smallish district sheltered under the heights of the Janiculum Hill, it was the artisan area of the city in classical times, neatly placed for the trade that came upriver from Ostia and was unloaded nearby. Outside the city walls, Trastevere (the study means literally “across the Tiber”) was for centuries heavily populated by immigrants, and this uniqueness and separation lent the neighbourhood a strong indistinguishability that lasted well into this century. Nowadays the area is a long way from the working-class quarter it used to be, and although you’re still likely to hear Travestere’s strong Roman dialect here, you’re also likely to bump into some of its many foreign residents, lured by the charm of its narrow streets and closeted squares. However, even if the local Festa de’ Noantri (“celebration of we others”), held every July, seems to symbolize the slow decline of local spirit rather than celebrate its existence, there is good reason to come to Trastevere. It is among the more pleasant places to stroll in Rome, particularly peaceful in the morning, and lively come the evening, as dozens of trattorias set tables out along the cobblestone streets (Trastevere has long been known for its restaurants). The neighbourhood has also become the focus of the city’s alternative scene and is home to much of its most vibrant and youthful nightlife.