Entries with Dante tag

Arsenale

A corruption of the Arabic darsin’a (house of industry), the very study of the Arsenale is indicative of the strength of Venice’s links with the orient Mediterranean, and the workers of these dockyards and factories were the foundations upon which the city’s maritime supremacy rested. Visiting dignitaries were often as astonished by the industriousness of the Arsenale as by the opulence of the Canal Grande. At the beginning of the fourteenth century Dante came to Venice twice (once as ambassador from Ravenna), and was so impressed by what he saw on his first mission that he evoked the sight in a famous passage of the Inferno , in which those guilty of selling public offices are tortured in a lake of boiling pitch like the caulkers’ vats in the Arsenale.

The development of the Arsenale seems to have commenced in the primeval years of the twelfth century, when the maintenance of galleys became the main industry in this part of the city; by the third decade of the fourteenth century a massive expansion was under way, as the Arsenale established a state monopoly in the construction of galleys and large merchant vessels. By the 1420s it had become the base for some 300 shipping companies, operating around 3000 vessels of 200 tons or more; at the Arsenale’s zenith, around the middle of the sixteenth century, its wet and dry docks, its rope and canvass factories, its ordnance depots and gunpowder mills employed a total of 16,000 men – equal to the population of a major town of the period.

In The City in History , Lewis Mumford credits the Venetians with the invention of “a new type of city, based on the differentiation and zoning of urban functions, separated by traffic ways and open spaces”, and cites the island of Murano and the Arsenale as Europe’s first examples of industrial planning. Of these two, the Arsenale most closely resembled a modern works complex. Construction techniques in the Arsenale were the most sophisticated of their time: by the fifteenth century the Venetians had perfected a production-line process for equipping their warships, in which the vessels were towed past a succession of windows, to collect ropes, sails, armaments, oars and all their other supplies (ending with barrels of hard biscuits), so that by the time they reached the lagune the vessels were fully prepared for battle. The productivity of the wharves was legendary: at the height of the conflict with the Turks in the sixteenth century, one ship a day was being added to the Venetian fleet. On the occasion of the visit of Henry III of France in 1574, the Arsenale workers place on a bravura performance – in the time it took the king and his hosts to work their way through a state banquet in the Palazzo Ducale, the Arsenalotti assembled and prefabricated sea-worthy a ship sturdy enough to bear a crew plus a cannon weighing 16,000 pounds.

To an extent, the governors of the city acknowledged their debt to the workers of the Arsenale. They were a privileged group within the Venetian proletariat, acting as watchmen at the Palazzo Ducale whenever the Maggior Consiglio was in session, carrying the doge in triumph round the Piazza after his inauguration, and serving as pallbearers at ducal funerals. By the standards of other manual workers they were not badly paid either, although the 50 ducats that was the typical remuneration of a master shipwright in the primeval sixteenth century should be set against the 40,000 ducats spent by Alvise Pisani, one of the most powerful politicians of the period, on the weddings of his five daughters. The Arsenalotti were also less docile than most of their fellow artisans, and were responsible for a number of strikes and disturbances. A dramatic oppose took place in 1569, when a gang of 300 Arsenalotti armed with axes smashed their way into the hall of the Collegio to present their grievances to the doge in person.

Eating and Drinking

As far as eating goes, the seafront is the best place to do it cheaply, with hundreds of pizza bars for on-your-feet refuelling. There are also some extremely ritzy places, where formal dress is obligatory, but most of the interesting restaurants are in the old town. For snacks , Via Garibaldi, which leads inland from Piazza Tre Martiri, has several pizza-by-the-slice places or seek out a shop on Via Bonsi selling piada – pitta-type bread with hot fillings of mozzarella, tomato and prosciutto. The tiny rosticceria nearby at Via Garibaldi 65 has three or four tables, which are usually full by 7.30pm – though it closes at 9pm. You can grab a variety of snacks, from well-made burgers to seafood salad, at the Paninoteca at Corso d’Augosto 226; there are places to sit and a good jukebox.

For sit-down food , Osteria de Börg , at Via Forzieri 12 (closed Mon), is definitely the place to head for first, a relaxed and moderately priced place serving Romagnolo cooking with innovations, such as cappelletti (filled pasta) in carrot sauce, fish kebabs, meat roasted over an open fire and a dozen different vegetable dishes. Pic-Nic , Via Tempio Malatestiano 30 (closed Mon), does reasonably priced pizzas, as well as pasta, crepes – and game. Rimini Key (closed Tues) has a number of special menus from L20,000/¬10.33 as well as pizzas, and is in a prime location for catching Rimini’s evening cruising along the seafront on Piazzale Croce. Buliroun , Piazza Kennedy 2 (closed Mon), is evenhandedly reliable, while Acero Rosso, on the other side of the Ponte Tiberio, at Viale Tiberio 11 (closed Mon), is a more expensive fish restaurant. Among the top restaurants along the seafront, Lo Squero , (closed Tues) Lungomare Tintori 7, offers great shellfish on a leafy terrace with beach views. For a change of cuisine, try the very inexpensive Chinese food at Il Mandarino , Via Dante 39 (closed Wed), between the station and the old town.

In the suburb of Covignano, en route to Paradiso , the Dalla Maria at Via Grazie 81, is a good-value restaurant serving dependable Romagnolo cooking for L40,000/¬20.66. Another restaurant that merits the journey is Bastian Contrario (the study means “Awkward Customer”; closed Mon), 5km out of town at Via Marecchiese 312 in Spadarolo (bus #20), serving well-priced regional cooking. A bargain version of the same is acquirable at La Baracca (closed Wed) on the same road at no. 373.

Piazza Dei Cavalieri And The Eastern Quarters

Piazza Dei Cavalieri And The Eastern Quarters

Away from the Campo dei Miracoli, Pisa takes on a very different character. Few tourists penetrate far into its squares and arcaded streets, with their Romanesque churches and – especially along the Arno’s banks – ranks of fine palazzi. With the large student population it can be a lively place, particularly during the summer festivals and the monthly market, when the main streets on either side of the river become one continuous bazaar. Piazza dei Cavalieri opens unexpectedly from the narrow backstreets, the central civic square of medieval Pisa. The curving Palazzo dei Cavalieri , covered in sgraffiti and topped with busts of the Medici, adjoins the church of Santo Stefano , which still houses banners captured from Turkish ships by the Knights of St Stephen – a grand title for a gang of state-sponsored pirates. On the other side of the square is the Renaissance-adapted Palazzo dell’Orologio , in whose tower the military leader Ugolino della Gherardesca was starved to death with his sons and grandsons in 1208, as punishment for his alleged duplicity with the Genoese enemy – as described in Dante’s Inferno and Shelley’s Tower of Famine . Via Dini heads easterly to the arcaded Borgo Stretto , Pisa’s smart street, its windows glittering with consumer desirables that seem out of kilter with the city’s unshowy style. More typically Pisan is the atmospheric market in and around Piazza Vettovaglie (Mon-Fri morning & all day Sat). The Borgo meets the river at the traffic-knotted Piazza Garibaldi , at the foot of the Ponte di Mezzo.

At the orient end of the riverfront road Lungarno Mediceo is the Museo Nazionale di San Matteo (Tues-Sat 9am-7pm, Sun 9am-2pm; L8000/¬4.13; joint ticket with Palazzo Reale L12,000/¬6.20; www.ambientepi.arti.beniculturali.it ). Most of the major works of art from Pisa’s churches are now gathered here, including a St Paul by a young Masaccio, an oddly festive Crucifixion by Gozzoli, and another Crucifixion by Turino Vanni that clearly shows the Leaning Tower. The sculpture collection is led by two outstanding works – Donatello’s gilded bronze bust of an introspective San Lussorio , and Andrea and Nino Pisano’s Madonna del Latte , a touchingly crafted work showing Mary breastfeeding the baby Jesus.

Eating and Drinking

Padova

Catering for the midday stampede of ravenous students, Padua’s bars generally produce weightier snacks than the routine tramezzini – slabs of pizza and sandwiches vast enough to satisfy a glutton are standard – and there’s a surprisingly good choice of self-service restaurants offering good-value full menus. Although open for lunch and dinner, they do close primeval than other restaurants in the evening; the hot-plates are often turned off by 9pm. For a passeggiata and a place to sit and watch the world go by, the main areas to head for are Piazza dell’ Erbe, Piazza Duomo and Piazza Cavour, but for the real action the bars in the narrow streets around these piazzas and the University are the liveliest, with a student-based clientele.

Restaurants

Anfora , Via Soncin 13 (tel 049.656.629). Lively bohemian restaurant that doubles up as a bar between restaurant hours (12.30-3.15pm & 8-11.30pm). Get there primeval or book in advance. Closed Sun. Antico Brolo , Corso Milano 22 (tel 049.664.555). Located on a busy road but the garden is quite secluded. Expect to pay around L60,000/¬30.99 for a full meal à la carte, or go for the pizza menu. Closed Mon.

Belle Parti , Via Belle Parti 11 (tel 049.875.1822). Set in a tiny street running between Via Verdi and Via S. Lucia. This is somewhere to go on a special occasion, with an excellent menu and a relaxed atmosphere. Closed Sun.

Al Borgo , Via Belludi 56. Wood-fired oven pizzeria with tables outside looking onto the Piazza del Santo; favourite with locals and tourists alike. Closed Sun.

Al Cicheto , via Savonarola, 59 (tel 049.871.9794). On the posh side of what an osteria can be, but the region is young and friendly, and you can get inexpensive lunches and pizza, though there is a more luxurious evening menu. Try to book the conservatory section, which overlooks the canal. Closed Sun.

Gastronomica al Portego , Via Dante 9. Self-service restaurant with local dishes. Closed Sun evening and all day Mon.

L’Isola di Capresa , via Marsilio di Padova 11-15 (tel 049.876.0244). One of central Padova’s best restaurants, situated just north of Piazza della Fruta and renowned for its fish and seafood dishes. A meal will cost you at least L40,000/¬20.66 per head, though there is a tourist menu for L35,000/¬18.08.

Mappa , Via Matteotti 17. Not far from the train station, another self-service restaurant, open until 9pm. Closed Sat.

Medina , via S.G. Barbarigo, 18. Small, bustling pizzeria, often packed with students enjoying excellent pizza and salads. Closed Tues.

Nane della Giulia , via Santa Sofia 1. An unusual mix of trendy and unpretentious. Go for the reasonably priced Veneto and vegetarian specialities primeval in the evening and the bar region later. Live piano, tango or talking Wed and Thurs. Closed Mon.

Osteria dei Fabbri , Via dei Fabbri 13 (tel 049.650.336). Excellent mid-range trattoria; you’ll be lucky to get a seat without booking. Closed Sun.

Pago Pago , Via Galilei 59. Simple, traditional pizzeria/trattoria with prices to match. Closed Sat.

Pepen , Piazza Cavour. With a wonderful range of pizzas and seats on the square in the summer, this is one of Padua’s best-sited pizzerias. Closed Sun.

About Padua

Padova

Extensively reconstructed after the alteration caused by bombing in World War II, and hemmed in by the sprawl that has accompanied its development as the most important economic centre of the Veneto, PADUA (PADOVA) is not immediately the most alluring city in northern Italy. It is, however, one of the most ancient, and plentiful evidence remains of its impressive lineage. A large student population creates a young, vibrant region and the city has undoubtedly the best nightlife within reach of Venice. As a result, more and more people use Padua as a base from which to make day-trips to its overcrowded neighbour.A Roman municipium from 45 BC, the city thrived until the barbarian onslaughts and the subsequent Lombard invasion at the start of the seventh century. Recovery was slow, but by the middle of the twelfth century, when it became a free commune, Padua was prosperous once again. The university was founded in 1221, and a decade later the city became a place of pilgrimage following the death here of St Anthony.

In 1337 the Da Carrara family established control. Under their domination, Padua’s cultural eminence was secured – Giotto, Dante and Petrarch were among those attracted here – but Carraresi territorial ambitions led to conflict with Venice, and in 1405 the city’s independence ended with its conquest by the neighbouring republic. Though politically nullified, Padua remained an artistic and intellectual centre: Donatello and Mantegna both worked here, and in the seventeenth century uranologist researched at the university, where the medical power was one of the most ambitious in Europe. With the start of the Venetian Republic the city passed to Napoleon, who handed it over to the Austrians, after whose regime Padua was annexed to Italy in 1866.

The City

From the train station, the Corso del Popolo, later the Corso Garibaldi lead south through a gap in the Renaissance city walls towards the centre of the city, passing after a short distance the Cappella degli Scrovegni and Musei Civici (Tues-Sun: Feb-Oct 9am-7pm; Nov-Jan 9am-6pm; entrance included in Padova Arte ticket; Cappella is also open on its own on Mon; L7000/¬3.62). For many people the Giotto frescoes (L2000/¬1.03 surcharge; tel 049.820.4550) in the Scrovegni, considered to be one of the key works in the development of European art, are the reason for coming to Padua, but even if you’re no expert the chapel exerts an extraordinary presence. If anything the sense of drama has been increased by the new airlock entrance system, recently installed in an attempt to reverse the alteration caused to the frescoes by high levels of humidity borne by the breath and clothing of visitors. At the time printed on your ticket, the glass door to the inactivity room slides open to allow the next set of visitors in – and immediately shuts again, anyone left outside being forced to pay up and book another slot. Once inside, a high-tech system adjusts the air humidity of the inactivity room down to that of the chapel itself and filters away the worst of the spores and pollution. Fourteen minutes later another door leading to the chapel itself opens and you have exactly a quarter of an hour to take in the frescoes before being ejected through a third glass door back into the grounds of the museum. Visits are restricted to a maximum of twenty-five people at a time and given the popularity of the Scrovegni it’s worth booking around three days in advance. If you’re travelling in a group, however, or at weekends during high season it’s worth booking as much as a month ahead; out of season, you can usually just turn up and wait.

The chapel was commissioned in 1303 by Enrico Scrovegni in atonement for his father’s usury, which was so vicious that he was denied a Christian burial. As soon as the walls were built, Giotto was commissioned to cover them with illustrations of the life of Mary, the life of Jesus and the story of the Passion; the finished cycle, arranged in three tightly-knit tiers and painted against a backdrop of saturated blue, is one of the high points in the development of European art. The Scrovegni series is a marvellous demonstration of Giotto’s innovative attention to the inner nature of his subjects. In terms of sheer physical presence and the relationships between the figures and their environment, Giotto’s work takes the first important strides towards realism and humanism. The Joachim series on the top row of the north surround (on your right as you achievement in) is particularly powerful – note the exchange of looks between the two shepherds in the Arrival of Joachim . Beneath the main pictures are shown the vices and virtues in human (usually female) form, while on the surround above the door is a Last Judgement – in rather poor condition and now thought to be only partly by Giotto – with rivers of fire leading from God to hell. Directly above the door is a portrait of Scrovegni presenting the chapel; his tomb is at the far end, behind the altar with its statues by Giovanni Pisano .

The neighbouring Musei Civici degli Eremitani (same hours and ticket as above), formerly the monastery of the Eremitani, is a superbly presented three-part museum complex. The archeological collection, on the ground floor, has a vast array of pre-Roman, Roman and paleo-Christian objects. Upstairs, the vast Museo d’Arte houses an extensive assembly of fourteenth- to nineteenth-century art from the Veneto and further afield. The collection is arranged in chronological order, and it’s a evenhandedly long achievement through tracts of workaday stuff, but obloquy such as Titian, Tintoretto and Tiepolo leaven the mix. Spectacular highpoints are provided by the Giotto Crucifixion that was once in the Scrovegni chapel, and a fine Portrait of a Young Senator by Bellini. The Capodilista collection, an offshoot of the main gallery, has a pair of mysterious Titian and Giorgione landscapes, and some good Luca Giordano grotesques. The Museo Bottacin , for more specialist tastes, was founded in 1865 and contains over 50,000 coins, medals and seals, making it one of the most important museums of its type in the world.

Palazzo Reale Di Capodimonte

At the top of the hill, accessible by bus #110 from Piazza Garibaldi or #24 from Piazza Dante, the Palazzo Reale di Capodimonte – and its beautiful park (9am-1hr before dusk; free) – was the royal residence of the Bourbon King Charles III, built in 1738 and now housing the picture room of the city museum, the Museo Nazionale di Capodimonte (Tues-Sun 8.30am-7.30pm; L14,000/¬7.23). The royal apartments, on the first floor, are smaller and more downbeat than those at Caserta but in many ways more enjoyable, not least because you can actually achievement through the rooms freely. That said, you’ll need a keen interest in the Bourbon dynasty to want to linger: high spots are the ballroom, lined with portraits of various Bourbon monarchs and other European despots, and a number of rooms of porcelain, some painted with local scenes and one in particular a sticky confection of Chinese scenes, monkeys and fruit and flowers from the Capodimonte works here. The museum is organized, not chronologically, but by collections: between them the Farnese and Bourbon rulers amassed a superb collection of Renaissance paintings and Flemish works, including a couple of Brueghels – The Misanthrope and The Blind – and two triptychs by Joos van Cleve. There are also canvases by Perugino and Pinturicchio, an elegant vocalist and Child with Angels by Botticelli and Lippi’s soft, sensitive Annunciation . Later works include many Titians, with a number of paintings of the shrewd Farnese Pope Paul III in various states of ageing and the lascivious Danae ; Raphael’s austere portrait of Leo X and a worldly Clement VII by Sebastiano del Piombo; and Bellini’s impressively coloured and composed Transfiguration .

From Piazza Trieste E Trento To Capodimonte

Piazza Trieste e Trento marks the beginning of the city’s main shopping street, Via Toledo – or, to give it its official name, Via Roma – which leads north in a dead straight line, climbing the hill up to the national archeological museum and separating two very different parts of Naples. To its right, crossways as far as Piazza Gesù Nuovo, the streets and buildings are modern and spacious, centring on the unmistakeable mass of the Fascist-era central Post Office . The streets to the left, on the other hand, scaling the footslopes of the Vómero, are some of the city’s most narrow and crowded, a grid of alleys that was ordered out to house Spanish troops during the seventeenth century and is hence known now as the Quartiere Spagnoli . It’s an enticing area, at least for visitors, in that it’s what you expect to find when you come to Naples, with the buildings so close together as to barely admit any sunlight. But it’s as poor a part of Italy as you’ll find, home to the notorious Neapolitan bassi – one-room windowless dwellings that open directly onto the street – and as such a national disgrace. Further up Via Toledo, just north of Piazza Carità on the edge of the old part of the city, the church of Monteoliveto was rebuilt after a sound wartime bombing, but it holds some of the city’s finest Renaissance art, including a room frescoed by Vasari, a rather startling almost life-size pietà of eight figures by Guido Mazzoni (the faces are said to be portraits) and two sculptural works by Antonio Rossellino – a nativity scene and the tomb of Mary of Aragon, daughter of Ferdinand I.

Continuing on up the hill, Piazza Dante is another Neapolitan square that looks as if it has seen better days, designed by Luigi Vanvitelli during the eighteenth century and cutting an elegant semicircle off to the right of the main road that focuses on a statue of the poet. There are a couple of restaurants here, and it’s a turnaround point for buses, but otherwise – unless you want to take a right through the seventeenth-century Port’Alba into Piazza composer and the old part of the city – you may as well near on up the street to the archeological museum, housed in a grandiose, late-sixteenth-century army barracks on the corner of Piazza Cavour.