Entries with coast tag

Walks Around Portofino

Portofino

The Portofino headland – fortified as the Parco Naturale Regionale di Portofino ( www.parks.it ) and encircled by cliffs and small coves – is one of the most rewarding areas for walking on the Riviera coast. At 612m, Monte di Portofino is high enough to be interesting but not so high as to demand any specialist hiking prowess. The trails cross slopes of wild thyme, pine and holm oak, enveloped in summer in the constant whirring of cicadas. From the summit, the view over successive headlands is breathtaking. Not many people achievement these marked paths, maybe because their primeval stages are evenhandedly steep – but they aren’t particularly strenuous, levelling off later and with plenty of places to stop. One of the best trails skirts the whole headland, beginning in Camogli, on the western side of the promontory. The path rises gently for 1km south to San Rocco (221m), then follows the coast south to a viewpoint above Punta Chiappa, before swinging easterly to the scenic Passo del Bacio (200m), rising to a ridge-top and then descending gently through the olive-trees and palms to San Fruttuoso (3hr from Camogli). It continues easterly over a little headland and onto the wild and beautiful cliff-tops above Punta Carega , before passing through the hamlets of Prato, Olmi (279m) and Cappelletta and down steps to Portofino (4hr 30min from Camogli).

There are plenty of alternative routes. About 1km south of San Rocco, an easier path forks inland up to Portofino Vetta and Pietre Strette (452m), before leading down again through the foliage to San Fruttuoso (2hr 30min from Camogli). Ruta is a small village 250m up on the north side of Monte di Portofino, served by buses from Camogli, Santa Margherita and Rapallo; a peaceful, little-trod trail from Ruta heads up to the summit of the mountain (2hr), or diverts partway along to take you crossways country to Olmi and on to Portofino (2hr 30min from Ruta).

About Pescara

Pescara

The main town and resort of the Abruzzo coast is PESCARA , a bustling, modern place that’s probably the region’s most commercial and expensive city. If you’re looking for somewhere to sunbathe there are much quieter places than Pescara’s 16km beach; but now that ferries to Croatia and the islands of the Dalmatian coast have started running again you might find yourself using the city as a departure point, or there’s a chance you might pass through for the train or bus connections. Architecturally, Pescara isn’t a distinguished town. In fact, its most striking sight is the central train station , strangely enough the most up-to-date in Italy, with a slick network of slinky escalators, smoked-glass screens and non-slip black rubber pavements. Opposite, the main street, Corso Umberto , is lined with designer boutiques and packed with the label-conscious Pescarese, who also hang out in the elegant cafés on Piazza Rinascita , known as Pescara’s salone . If you’ve time to kill, you could visit the Museo delle Genti d’Abruzzo at Via delle Caserme 22 (Mon-Fri 9am-1pm & Mon, Wed, Fri 2.30-5pm; Sun 10am-1pm; L5000/¬2.58), devoted to the life and favourite traditions of the region; or visit the birthplace of the poet and mentor of Mussolini, Gabriele d’Annunzio , at Corso Manthonè 101 (Tues-Sun 9am-1.30pm; L4000/¬2.06). A third museum, the Museo e Pinacoteca Cascella at Viale G. Marconi 45 (Mon-Sat 9am-1pm, plus Thurs 4-7pm; L3000/¬1.54) is for devotees of Art Nouveau and later twentieth-century art, with 500 lithographic prints, paintings, ceramics and sculptures including a stunning set of portraits (mounted on dinner plates) by the prolific Cascella family who lived and worked here.

Etruscans and Greeks

Greek settlers colonized parts of the Tuscan coast and the Bay of city in the eighth century BC, moving on to Naxos on Sicily’s Ionian coast, and founding the city of Syracuse in the year 736 BC. The colonies they established in Sicily and southern Italy came to be known as Magna Graecia . Along with Etruscan cities to the north they were the early Italian civilizations to leave substantial buildings and written records.The Greek settlements were hugely successful, introducing the vine and the olive to Italy, and establishing a high-yielding agricultural system. Cities like Syracuse and Tarentum were wealthier and more sophisticated than those on mainland Greece, dominating trade in the central Mediterranean, despite competition from Carthage. Ruins such as the temples of Agrigento and Selinunte , the fortified walls around Gela, and the theatres at Syracuse and Taormina on Sicily attest to a great prosperity, and Magna Graecia became an enriching influence on the culture of the Greek homeland – Archimedes, Aeschylus and Empedocles were all from Sicily. Yet these colonies suffered from the same factionalism as the Greek states, and the cities of Tarentum, Metapontum, Sybaris and Croton were united only when visaged with the threat of outside invasion. From 400 BC, after Sybaris was razed to the ground, the other colonies went into irreversible economic decline, to become satellite states of Rome.

The Etruscans were the other major civilization of the period, mostly living in the area between the Tiber and Arno rivers. Their language, known mostly from funerary texts, is one of the last relics of an ancient language common to the Mediterranean. Some say they arrived in Italy around the ninth century BC from western Anatolia, others that they came from the north, and a third hypothesis places their origins in Etruria. Whatever the case, they set up a cluster of twelve city states in northern Italy, traded with Greek colonies to the south and were the most powerful people in northern Italy by the sixth century BC, edging out the indigenous population of Ligurians, Latins and Sabines. Tomb frescoes in Umbria and Lazio depict a refined and luxurious culture with highly developed systems of divination, based on the reading of animal entrails and the flight of birds. Herodotus wrote that the Etruscans recorded their ancestry along the female line, and tomb excavations last century revealed that women were buried in special sarcophagi carved with their names. Well-preserved chamber tombs with surround paintings exist at Cerveteri and Tarquinia , the two major sites in Italy. The Etruscans were technically advanced, creating new agricultural land through irrigation and building their cities on ramparted hilltops – a pattern of settlement that has left a permanent mark on central Italy. Their kingdom contracted, however, after invasions by the Cumans , Syracusans and Gauls , and was eventually forced into alliance with the embryonic Roman state.

Early times

A smattering of remains exist from the Neanderthals who occupied the Italian peninsula half a million years ago, but the main period of colonization began after the last Ice Age. Evidence of Paleolithic settlements dates from this time, around 20,000 BC, the next development being the spread of Neolithic tribes crossways the peninsula, between 5000 and 6000 years ago. More sophisticated tribes developed towards the end of the prehistoric period, between 2400 and 1800 BC; those who left the most visible traces were the Ligurians (who inhabited a much greater area than modern Liguria), the Siculi of southern Italy and Latium, and the Sards , who farmed and raised livestock on Sardinia. More advanced still were migrant groups from the orient Mediterranean, who introduced the techniques of working copper. Later, various Bronze Age societies (1600-1000 BC) built a network of farms and villages in the Apennines, and on the Sicilian and southern coasts, the latter population trading with Mycenaeans in Greece.Other tribes brought Indo-European languages into Italy. The Veneti, Latins and Umbrii moved down the peninsula from the north, whilst the Piceni and the Messapians in Puglia crossed the Adriatic from what is now Croatia. The artificial line between prehistory and history is drawn around the eighth century BC, with the arrival of the Phoenician alphabet and writing system. Sailing west along the African coast, the Phoenicians established colonies in Sicily and Sardinia, going on to build trade links between Carthage and southern Italy. These soon encouraged the arrival of the Carthaginians , who set themselves up on Sicily, Sardinia and the Latium coast, at the same time as both Greeks and Etruscans were gaining influence.

About Italy

About ItalyThe north is “discovered” Italy. The regions of Piemonte and Lombardy , in the northwest, make up the richest and most cosmopolitan part of the country, and the two main centres, Turin and Milan, are its wealthiest large cities. In their southern reaches, these regions are flat and scenically dull, especially Lombardy, but in the north the presence of the Alps shapes the character of each: skiing and hiking are prime activities, and the lakes and mountains of Lombardy are time-honoured tourist territory. Liguria , the small coastal domain to the south, has long been known as the “Italian Riviera” and is accordingly crowded with sun-seeking holiday-makers for much of the summer season. Nonetheless it’s a beautiful stretch of coast, and its capital, Genoa, is a bustling port with a long seafaring tradition.

Much of the most dramatic mountain scenery lies within the smaller northern regions. In the far northwest, the tiny bilingual region of Valle d’Aosta is home to some of the country’s most frequented ski resorts, and is bordered by the tallest of the Alps – the Matterhorn and Mont Blanc. Moving east, Trentino-Alto Adige , another bilingual region, and one in which the national boundary is especially blurred, marks the beginning of the Dolomites mountain range, where Italy’s largest national park, the Stelvio, lies amid some of the country’s most memorable landscapes. » Read more: About Italy