Entries with Aldo Moro tag

Practicalities

AgrigentoTrains arrive at Agrigento Centrale station at the edge of the old town; don’t get out at Agrigento Bassa, as it’s 3km north of town. Buses use the terminal in Piazza Roselli, near the post office, while city buses to the temples and the beach at San Leone leave from Piazza Marconi, outside the train station, as does the bus to Porto Empédocle for ferries to the Pelágie Islands . Buy city bus tickets (L1500/¬0.78) from kiosks or tabacchi , not on the bus. The old town stetches west of the three main interlocking squares, piazzas Marconi, Aldo Moro and Vittorio Emanuele. Via Atenea is Agrigento’s principal artery, running west from Piazza Aldo Moro, with the tourist office at its orient end, at via Cesare Battisti 15 (Mon-Fri 8.30am-1.45pm, also Wed 4-7pm; tel 0922.20.454). Finding somewhere to stay in Agrigento shouldn’t be a problem, except perhaps in peak season. The Bella Napoli , Piazza Lena 6 (tel & fax 0922.20.435; L60,000-90,000/¬30.99-46.48), at the western end of the old town, is one of the better budget choices, but can be a little noisy. Otherwise try the smartish Belvedere , Via San Vito 20 (tel & fax 0922.20.051; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98), or the friendly Concordia , Piazza San Francesco 11 (tel 0922.596.266; L90,000-120,000/¬46.48-61.98), both clean and pleasant choices. If you want to spend a little more, you can stay right in the archeological regularize at the Villa Athena , Via dei Templi (tel 0922.596.288; L250,000-300,000/¬129.11-154.94), with a pool and big windows soaking up the views. You can camp 6km away at the coastal resort of SAN LEONE , at Internazionale San Leone (tel 0922.416.121); bus #2 or #2/ from outside the train station (every 30min until 9pm).

You can try the food and local wine at La Forchetta , next door to the Concordia hotel, with outdoor seating but nothing fancy; an unadvertised menu turistico keeps the bill down. If you’re budgeting, make your way to the Atenea , a friendly family-run trattoria in Via Ficari, a quiet courtyard just off the Via Atenea (closed Sun except July-Aug). In the same neighbourhood, at Via Giambertoni 2, the Ambasciata di Sicilia (tel 0922.20.526; closed Mon) is small but has a view-laden terrace and serves a mean antipasto rustico and delectable fresh fish. Right overlooking the temples below the centre, Le Caprice at Via Panoramica dei Templi 51 is professionally brisk but maintains high gastronomic standards in its classic Italian cooking – a good spot for lunch or dinner. With a car, you could head out to the moderate-to-expensive Del Vigneto at Via Cavaleri Magazzeni 11, south of the temples off the SS115 (tel 0922.414.319; July & August closed Mon; Sept-June closed Tues & Nov); the regional dishes served here are superb.

Aldo Moro

Just around the corner from the turtle fountain, a little way up Via Caetani on the right, is a memorial to the former Italian prime minister Aldo Moro , whose dead body was left in the boot of a car here on the morning of 9 May, 1978, 54 days after his kidnap by an Italian terrorist group. It was a carefully chosen spot, not only for the impudence it showed on the part of the terrorists, in that it was right in the centre of Rome, but also for its position midway between the headquarters of the Communist and Christian Democrat parties.A plaque (and sometimes a wreath) marks the spot, and tells part of the story of how Moro, a reform-minded Christian Democrat, was the first right-wing politician to attempt to build an alliance with the then favourite Italian Communists. Whether it was really left-wing terrorists who kidnapped him, or whether it was darker, right-wing forces allied to the establishment, or perhaps a combination of the two, there’s no doubt that Moro’s attempt to alleviate the Right’s postwar monopoly of power found very little favour with others in power at the time – though that didn’t make his death any less of a shock. Given the “mani pulliti’ years that have followed, and the minuscule change and the political cynicism that has resurfaced in the 1990s, it’s a tragedy which must still carry a lot of resonance for Romans. The prime minister who took over after Moro’s death was after all none other than the recently tried (and acquitted) elder statesman of Italian politics, Giulio Andreotti

Practicalities

Brindisi

Arriving by ferry from Greece leaves you at one of three landing stages: two of these are on Via del Mare, at the Stazione Marittima from where it’s a few minutes’ achievement to Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and the bottom of Corso Garibaldi, and another twenty minutes up to the central train station the other side of the town centre in Piazza Crispi. The other disembarkation point is at Costa Moreno , a couple of kilometres south-east of town, there’s no bus to the centre, so take the ferry (7am-midnight; L800/¬0.41) to the Stazione Marittima, or a taxi. Marozzi coaches linking the town with Rome (3 daily; tel 0831.597.884) and Miccolis coaches connecting it with city (3 daily; tel 0831.560.678) arrive at and depart from near the tourist office on Viale Regina Margherita. For transport around town , lots of buses run down Corso Umberto and Corso Garibaldi; taxis sit in ranks outside the train station. The tourist office is at Piazza Dionisio off Lungomare Regina Margherita (Mon-Fri 8.30am-2.00pm & 3-7pm Sat 8.30am-1pm; tel 0831.523.072). Nearly all the ferries leave in the evening so accommodation isn’t usually a problem. If you do need to stay, there’s the no-frills Venezia , Via Pisanelli 6 (tel 0831.527.511; up to L60,000/¬30.99), or evenhandedly cheap rooms at the Hotel Europa , Piazza Cairoli 5 (tel 0831.528.546; L60,000-90,000/¬30.99-46.48). More upscale choices are the clean but rather dated Regina , Via Cavour 5 (tel 0831.562.001; L150,000-200,000/¬77.47-103.29), L’Approdo , Via del Mare 50 (tel 0831.529.667; L120,000-150,000/¬61.98-77.47), with small, restful air-conditioned rooms, or the slick Mediterraneo , Via Aldo Moro 70 (tel 0831.582.811; L200,000-250,000/¬103.29-129.11), a Best Western hotel. There’s also a youth hostel , 2km out of town in Casale at Via Brandi 2 (tel 0831.413.123, hostelbrindisi@hotmail.com ; L18,000/¬9.29), where you can rent a bed for the day (L9,000/¬4.64) if you’ve got a night departure, with full use of their facilities including hot showers and email. The hostel is reachable on bus #3 or #4 from the train station, walkable in fifteen minutes by following the strategically placed yellow signs through town, or you can call them for a free pick-up service from town (they’ll drive you back to the port or to the beach later too if you ask nicely).

It’s not difficult to eat cheaply in Bríndisi; the whole of Corso Umberto and Corso Garibaldi (particularly the port end) is smothered in bars and restaurants staffed by waiters who will chase you down the street with copies of the menu. You should be healthy to grab a complete meal for under L20,000/¬10.33. For twice as much you can have a memorable meal at the acclaimed Trattoria Pantagruele , Via Salita di Ripalta 13 (closed all day Mon & Sun evening, plus weekends in July & Aug), which serves very good local dishes, especially seafood.

Listings

Bari

Beach The nearest beach is north of the city; take bus #1 from Teatro Petruzzelli to Palese/Santo Spirito. To the south, there are beaches at Torre a Mare and San Giorgio – both reached on bus #12 from Stazione Centrale or #12 from Teatro Petruzzelli. Exchange Outside banking hours in Piazza Aldo Moro, inside Stazione Centrale.

Hospital Ospedale Consorziale Policlinico, Piazza Giulio Cesare (tel 080.547.3111).

Police Via G Murat (tel 080.529.1111).

Post office The main office is behind the university in Piazza Battisti (Mon-Fri 8am-7.30pm, Sat 8.30am-noon).

Travel agents CTS, Via Fornari 7 (tel 080.523.6671).

Arrival and information

Bari

Bari is a evenhandedly compact city, running from the train station in the gridded new city down to the bulging old centre, the cittàvecchia , in just ten blocks. There are three train stations in Bari. The Stazione Centrale is in Piazza Aldo Moro, on the southern edge of the modern centre; it serves regular FS trains and those of the private Ferrovia del Sud-Est line (FSE information tel 080.546.2111), which run down to Gagliano del Capo . Nearby, at Piazza Aldo Moro, the separate Stazione Bari-Nord is for trains run by the private FerroTramViaria company (FTV information tel 080.523.2202), connecting Bari with Andria, Barletta, Bitonto and Ruvo di Puglia. Adjacent to this, on Corso Italia, is the Stazione FAL Apulo-Lucane ; trains and buses from here are run by Ferrovia Apulo-Lucane (FAL train information tel 080.572.5227; bus information tel 080.572.5215) and go to Altamura, Gravina, and Matera and Potenza in Basilicata. Buses complicate the issue even further: from the coastal towns north of Bari you’ll arrive at Piazza Eroi del Mare; SITA buses from inland and southern towns pull up in Largo Sorrentino (behind the train station); Marozzi buses from Rome arrive either here or on Piazza Aldo Moro. Buses of the private rail line FAL, from Basilicata, arrive at their station on Corso Italia, while FSE buses from Bríndisi pull in at their station on Largo Ciaia. Ferries from Albania, Croatia, Turkey, Israel, Montenegro and Greece (Igoumenitsa, Corfu and Patras) all use the Stazione Marittima, next to the old city, connected with the main FS train station by bus #20. The airport is about 9km northwest up the coast, there is an Alitalia bus that connects with arrivals and drops at the central train station.

Getting around , your best bet is to achievement – not a bad option in such a small city. Buses are bright orange and run from 5.30am until around 11pm, mostly focusing on Piazza Aldo Moro.

The tourist office is at Piazza Aldo Moro 33a, in a small cul de cover to the right as you come out of the main train station (Mon-Sat 8.30am-1pm; tel 080.524.2244), and has maps and information on the city.

The 1970s and 1980s

In the 1970s the situation worsened: bankruptcies increased, inflation hit twenty percent, and unemployment rocketed. More extreme forms of unrest broke out, instigated in the first instance by the far right, who were almost certainly behind a bomb which killed sixteen people in Piazza Fontana, Milan in 1969, and the Piazza della Loggia bombing in Brescia five years later. Neo-fascist terrorism continued throughout the next decade, reaching its hideous climax in 1980, when 84 people were killed and 200 wounded in a bomb blast at Bologna train station. At the same time, a plethora of left-wing terrorist groups sprang up, many of them led by disaffected intellectuals at the northern universities. The most active of these were the Brigate Rosse (Red Brigades). Founded in Milan in 1970, they reached the peak of their notoriety eight years later, when a Red Brigade group kidnapped and killed Aldo Moro himself. A major police offensive in the primeval 1980s nullified most of the Brigate Rosse, but a number of hardline splinter groups from the various terrorist organizations – especially right-wing ones – are still in existence, as was evidenced in 1988 by the murder of an aide of the prime minister.Inconsistencies and secrecy beset those trying to discover who was really responsible for the terrorist activity of the Seventies. One Red Brigade member who served 18 years in slammer for his part in the assassination of Aldo Moro recently asserted that it was spies working for the Italian secret services and not bona fide members of the group who masterminded the operation. Alberto Franceschini told a parliamentary commission on terrorism in March 1999 that he believed that Brigade members Mario Moretti and Giovanni Senzani were both secret service plants who had infiltrated the group. Their involvement coincided with a particularly bloody phase of activity at a time when Renato Curcio , the orginal leader of the Red Brigades was betrayed to the authorities; the details of the kidnapping implied that certain privileged information was available; and both Moretti and Senzani were exceptional in being allowed to travel to the US when it was the usual US policy to refuse Italian Communists visas.

A recent report prepared by the PDS (Italy’s party of the democratic left) for the same parliamentary commission stirred up controversy again in summer 2000. The report referred to the Establishment’s ” strategy of tension ” in the 1970s and primeval 1980s in which it was said that indiscriminate bombing of the public and the threat of a right-wing coup were devices to stabilize centre-right political control of the country. The perpetrators of bombing campaigns were rarely caught, said the report, because “those massacres, those bombs, those military actions had been organized or promoted or supported by men inside Italian state institutions and, as has been discovered more recently, by men linked to the structures of United States intelligence”. “Other bombing campaigns were attributed to the left to prevent the Communist Party from achieving power by democratic means” said Valter Bielli, PDS MP, and one of the report’s authors. The report drew furious rebuttals from centre-right groups and the US embassy in Rome.

Yet the DC government survived, sustained by the so-called “historic compromise” negotiated in 1976 with Enrico Berlinguer , leader of the Partito Comunista Italiano (PCI). By this arrangement the PCI – polling 34 percent of the national vote, just three points less than the DC – agreed to desist from voting in parliament in order to maintain a government of national unity. The pact was rescinded in 1979, and after Berlinguer’s death in 1984 the PCI’s share of the vote dropped to around 27 percent. The combination of this withdrawal of favourite support and the collapse of the Communist bloc led to a realignment of the PCI under the leadership of Achille Occhetto , who turned the party into a democratic socialist grouping along the lines of left-leaning parties in Germany or Sweden – a transformation encapsulated by the party’s new study – the Partito Democratico della Sinistra (“Democratic Party of the Left”).

In its efforts to exclude the left wing from power, the DC had been obligated to accede to demands from minor parties such as the Radical Party , which gained eighteen seats in the 1987 election, one of them going to the porn star Ilona Staller, better known as La Cicciolina . Furthermore, the DC’s reputation was severely dilapidated in the primeval 1980s by a series of scandals, notably the furore surrounding the activities of the P2 Masonic lodge, when links were discovered between corrupt bankers, senior DC members, and fanatical right-wing groups. As its popularity fell, the DC was forced to offer the premiership to politicians from other parties. In 1981 Giovanni Spadolini of the Republicans became the first non-DC prime minister since the war, and in 1983 Bettino Craxi was installed as the first premier from the PSI, a position he held for four years.

Even through the upheavals of the 1970s the national income of Italy continued to grow, and there developed a national preoccupation with Il Sorpasso , a term signifying the country’s overtaking of France and Britain in the economic league table. Experts disagreed as to whether Il Sorpasso actually happened (most thought it hadn’t), and calculations were complicated by the huge scale of tax evasion and other illicit financial dealings in Italy. All strata of society were involved in the withholding of money from central government, but the ruling power in this economia sommersa (submerged economy) was, and to a certain extent still is, the Mafia , whose contacts penetrate to the highest levels in Rome. The most traumatic proof of the Mafia’s infiltration of the political hierarchy came in May 1992, with the murders of anti-Mafia judges Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino , whose killers could only have penetrated the judges’ security with the help of inside information.

The postwar years

A favourite mandate declared Italy a republic in 1946, and Alcide de Gasperi’s Democrazia Cristiana (DC) party formed a government. He remained in power until 1953, sustained by a succession of coalitions. Ever since then, the regular formation and disintegration of governments has been the norm, a political volatility that reflects the sharp divisions between rural and urban Italy, and between the north and the south of the country. A strong manufacturing base and large-scale agriculture have given most people in the north a better material standard of living than previous generations, but the south still lags far behind, despite such measures as the establishment in 1950 of the Cassa del Mezzogiorno development agency, which has pumped much-needed funds into the region.During the 1950s Italy became a front-rank industrial nation, massive firms such as Fiat and Olivetti helping to double the Gross Domestic Product and triple industrial production. American financial aid – the Marshall Plan – was an important bourgeois in this expansion, as was the availability of a large and compliant workforce, a substantial proportion of which was drawn from the villages of the south.

The DC at first operated in alliance with other right-wing parties, but in 1963, in a move precipitated by the increased politicization of the blue-collar workers, they were obligated to share power for the first time with the Partito Socialista Italiano (PSI). The DC politician who was largely responsible for sounding out the socialists was Aldo Moro , the dominant figure of Italian politics in the 1960s. Moro was prime minister from 1963 to 1968, a period in which the economy was disturbed by inflation and the removal of vast sums of money by wealthy citizens alarmed by the arrival in power of the PSI. The decade ended with the ” autunno caldo ” (“hot autumn”) of 1969, when strikes, occupations and demonstrations paralysed the country.