A little over a kilometre northwest of the Castelvecchio is the Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore (Mon-Sat 9am-6pm, Sun 1-6pm; L3000/¬1.55), one of the most significant Romanesque churches in northern Italy. A church was founded here, above the tomb of the city’s patron saint, as primeval as the fifth century, but the present building and its campanile were place up in the first half of the twelfth century, with additions continuing up to the end of the fourteenth. Its large rose window, representing the Wheel of Fortune, dates from the primeval twelfth century, as does the magnificent portal, whose lintels bear relief sculptures representing the months – look also for St Zeno trampling the devil. The reliefs to the side of the portal are also from the twelfth century and show scenes from the Old Testament on the right, and scenes from the New Testament on the left (except for the bottom two on both sides, which depict scenes from the life of Theodoric the Great). Extraordinary bronze panels on the doors depict scenes from the Bible and the Miracles of San Zeno, their style influenced by Byzantine and Ottoman art; most of those on the left are from around 1100, and most of the right-hand panels date from a century or so later. Areas of the lofty and simple interior are covered with frescoes, some superimposed upon others, some defaced by ancient graffiti. Diverting though these are, the one compulsive image in the church is the high altar’s luminous vocalist and Saints by Mantegna.