The canal behind the Scuola di San Rocco provides an especially captivating waterscape, with a promontory of pavement jutting out into an unusually wide confluence. Cross this canal (there’s a bridge at the back of the Scuola; another connects with the sottoportego covering the back of the Frari) and you’ll hit the teeming Crosera San Pantalon, where the region in the shops, cafés and bars has a lot to do with the closeness of the university. Between this street and the Rio di Ca’ Fóscari stands the church of San Pantaleone , which possesses a picture by Antonio Vivarini and Giovanni d’Alemagna ( Coronation of the Virgin , in the Chapel of the Holy Nail, to the left of the chancel) and Veronese ’s last painting, St Pantaleone Healing a Boy (second chapel on right). San Pantaleone was credited with medicinal capabilities only slightly less awesome than San Rocco’s, and Veronese’s scene emphasizes the miraculous nature of his power (he spurns the offered box of potions) and the impotence of non-Christian treatment (symbolized by the limbless figure of Asclepius, the classical god of medicine).

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San Pantaleone is open Mon-Sat 4-6pm.

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The church can also boast of having the most melodramatic ceiling in the city: The Martyrdom and Apotheosis of St Pantaleone . Painted on sixty panels, some of which actually jut out over the nave, it kept Gian Antonio Fumiani busy from 1680 to 1704. Sadly, he never got the chance to bask in the glory of his labours - he died in a start from the scaffolding from which he’d been working.