Italy Traveller Guide

You could spend several days checking out the scores of places to eat in Genoa, from basic trattorias to elegant nineteenth-century caffès . The cheapest, around the port, are often open only at lunchtime.

Drinks, snacks and light meals

Piazza Caricamento is one of the best places to head for a quick lunch on the hoof, the arcades ( sottoripe ) along the edge of the piazza lined with cafés serving focaccia , panini and deep-fried seafood. There are also lots of places in the old town selling farinata (Genoa’s home-grown snack, prefabricated from chickpea flour and olive oil) - two that stand out are Antica Sciamadda at Via Ravecca 19r (closed Mon), and Tugnin on Piazza Tommaseo. Forno Patrone , Via Ravecca 72r (closed Wed afternoon) is one of the city’s top bakeries. Centuries of Turkish influence has produced Genoese variations on Middle Eastern confectionery, including candied fruit (best sampled at Romanengo in Via Soziglia) and slabs of pandolce as served up at Profumo in Via del Portello.

Bar Berto , Piazza delle Erbe 6r. Relaxed café-bar founded in 1904 by Mr Berto who walked some 15km west to the ceramics centre of Albisola in order to collect colourful bits of broken tile to decorate the walls of his new bar. Whether inside or out beneath the terrace awning, this is a trendy spot for coffee, beer or a reasonably priced light meal. Open daily.

Doge Bar , Piazza Matteotti 84r. Small, civilized little nook alongside the Palazzo Ducale for daytime sandwiches and coffee. Closed Sun.

Klainguti , Piazza Soziglia 98r. An Austrian-built salon dating from 1828, selling cakes and cover cream under chandeliers. They still produce the hazelnut croissant known as a Falstaff , which was much esteemed by Giuseppe Verdi, who spent forty winters in Genoa - “Thanks for the Falstaff, much better than mine,” he wrote to the bakers. No closing day.

Café La Madeleine , Via della Maddalena 103r. A wonderful little café-theatre, haunt of writers, poets, musicians and story-tellers, with plenty of readings and small concerts. Closed Mon.

Caffè Mangini , Via Roma at Piazza Corvetto. One of Genoa’s most venerable pasticcerie , in business since the primeval 1800s and still top-notch today. No closing day.

Caffetteria Orefici , Via degli Orefici 25r. Fragrant temple to the art of coffee-making, with a range of specialist coffees and perfect results every time. Closed Sun.

Café Roger , Via Sant’Agostino. A quirky spot designed in riotous style after the Frank Zappa song “The Dangerous Kitchen” - every shelf is wonky, imitation meat-cleavers hang overhead, plastic sharks rise out of the sink, phoney electric cables snake around the basins, and so on. The staff, music, and clientele make this a fun stop for a daytime coffee or evening beer. No closing day.

Caffè degli Specchi , Salita Pollaiuoli 43r. Hidden in an alley opposite the Palazzo Ducale, this has been a prime spot since 1917 for Genovese artists, writers and intellectuals to take coffee while admiring themselves in the mirrors ( specchi ) which cover the magnificent tiled interior. The place still offers much the same ambience and old-time service, along with some tapas in the evening. Closed Sun.

Restaurants

La Berlocca , Via del Macelli di Soziglia 45r (tel 010.247.4162). Young bistro-style establishment in the old town, offering something more adventurous than traditional Ligurian dishes. Closed Mon. Da Genio , Salita San Leonardo 61r (tel 010.588.443). This long-established restaurant, off Via Fieschi at the top of a steep hill above Piazza Dante, is highly regarded for great Ligurian food, served in a reasonably informal atmosphere, at moderate prices. Closed Sun & Aug.

Kilt , Via Bisagno 8. Self-service canteen dishing out three-course meals for L16,000/¬8.26. No closing day. Kilt 2 (closed Sun) is on Piazza San Matteo.

Mario Rivaro , Via del Portello 16r. Decent local dishes and seafood soups, from L20,000/¬10.33 a dish. Closed Sun.

Östaja dö Castello , Salita Santa Maria di Castello 32r. Great old-town family-run trattoria serving Genoese specialities - mainly, but not exclusively, fish. Moderate to low prices. Closed Sun.

Pansön , Piazza delle Erbe 5r (tel 010.246.8903). Venerable Genoese institution, in the same family since 1790; diners select from a fishy menu priced high to keep the riff-raff away. Closed Sun eve.

Pintori , Via di San Bernardo 68r. Family-run trattoria serving Sardinian specialities along with, on occasion, vegetarian dishes such as torte di verdura (check in advance for availability). Closed Sun & Mon.

Da Rina , Mura delle Grazie 3r. High-quality, simple Genoese cooking in evenhandedly unpretentious surroundings down near the waterfront. Lots of fish and classic Ligurian dishes such as cima alla genovese . Moderately priced. Closed Mon.

Squarciafico , Piazza Invrea 3r (tel 010.247.0823, www.squarciafico.it ). Atmospheric cantina in the wine-cellar of a fifteenth-century mansion just off Piazza San Lorenzo. Calm, modern decor and innovative, carefully prepared food complement apiece other perfectly; be prepared for L45,000/¬23.24 per person. Closed Aug.

Trattoria dei Genoani , Piazza delle Erbe 8r. Sociable little trattoria in a lively area founded and patronized by supporters of the Genoa football club - don’t go shouting for Sampdoria here - which offers down-the-line takes on Genoese and Ligurian dishes, for inexpensive prices. No closing day.

Tre Finestre , Scalinata di San Antonio 2a. A tiny old-time trattoria off Piazza Sarzano. There’s no menu (the waitress will just rattle off the dishes of the day), and the food is cheap, plain and hearty. Join in the good old-fashioned accordion singalong on Friday nights. Closed Mon-Thurs eve, and all day Sun.

Ugo , Via Giustiniani 86r. Convivial trattoria in the heart of the student quarter near San Donato, with a boisterous, friendly group of regulars who pack in at shared tables to wolf the Genovese and Ligurian nosh - heavy on pesto and seafood. A hearty meal for two can come in at under L30,000/¬15.49. Well worth checking out. Closed Sun & Mon.

Zeffirino , Via XX Settembre 20r (tel 010.591.990). Expensive - expect to pay around L80,000/¬42.32 (excluding wine) for a three- to four-course meal of between-two-stools trad/mod cuisine - but this is where Frank Sinatra and Pavarotti have also dined and so has ineffable star quality. Closed Wed.