Brescia is nowhere near as well endowed with restaurants as Bergamo, and none are especially cheap. However, if you’re flat broke, BarBar , opposite the Rotonda (closed Wed), is a good place to fill up on bar snacks for free. Bersaglieria , at Corso Magenta 38 (closed Mon), is a decent pizzeria, cheap and with the option of vegetarian pizza on a wholemeal (“integrale”) base; while for a more unusual evening meal there’s organic food at Altamira , just off the northern end of Piazza Paolo VI on Vicolo Agostino (closed Mon), though this can be quite expensive. Other good bets include Osteria Vecchio Botticino , at Piazzale Arnaldo 6 (closed Sun), on the orient edge of town, and Osteria dell Elfo , near the cathedral at Piazza del Vescovado 1b (booking advisable, tel 030.377.4858; closed Mon) – a fine, inexpensive restaurant serving a seasonally varied menu that includes great pasta, intriguing trout-filled ravioli, and carrot cake.